Kölner Dom: 600 years in the making......... well worth the wait!

Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) is one of the most beautiful buildings I've seen and don't just take my word for it, DH agrees.  Even DJ was struck by how tall and magnificent it is.  We asked him if he would like to go inside and he said "YEAH!".  (Good thing he has seen the School House Rock for ex-cla-ma-tions!)  Hotel Albergo was lovely, though loud on the weekend with several Stag and Hen parties laughing until 4am, and greets you with gummy bears on the pillows instead of chocolates.  DJ was very impressed with this and promptly ran to each pillow to snatch them up.  DH wasted no time in ordering up a Kolsch (specialty beer brewed in Köln) at dinner and we dined on the square.


First day DH went to work meetings and DJ and I rode the bus to the train to the zoo.  I was excited for him to see some elephants as Detroit, MI and Fort Wayne, IN zoos don't have them; but he was most interested in the penguins and the monkeys.

Second day we all went to Kölner Dom.  After walking the full perimeter we entered and followed along a self guided tour seeing the Shrine of the Three Magi and a stunning chapel featuring the oldest stained glass in the cathedral.
I've never really paid much attention to relics in the past, but the three magi was a meaningful experience for me.  "We Three Kings" is my favorite Christmas carol, even though it's officially for Epiphany, and I was struck by the reality that this is the resting place for the individuals who led in wonder, journeyed to worship Jesus and honor him with gold, frankincense and myrrh.  What treasures do I have from my own journey to lay at Jesus feet?
In the Treasury on the lower levels we saw a room filled with more than half a dozen illuminated manuscripts...Ay me...I'm in love!  The gold leaf and calligraphy was beautiful.    


We also climbed the tower...an incredibly narrow spiral staircase consisting of 533 steps (not a typo!).  The first break is at the bell tower level with where you can see The St. Peter Bell: the largest free-swinging bell in the world.  While we were walking around this area, one of the much smaller bells rang without notice and was so loud it scared DJ into my arms shaking.  After hearing bells almost everyday since arriving in Deutschland, it was suddenly very clear why you can hear them echo across the entire city!  The second break is at a round room with stone benches all around where it is much cooler than the staircase...phew!  I stayed here and DH took an insistent DJ up the remaining 100+ steps to the viewing deck to see the cityscape.  DJ was ready to rock since he was carried most of the way up...DH is my hero.  :)


So what else is worth a visit in Cologne?  Well, the Chocolate Museum was fun AND delicious.  I would quit my day job, but the lady at the chocolate fountain was handing the wafers to visitors instead of indulging herself.  Needless to say it smelled wonderful in there and it was fun to see how the chocolates are made.  Am I grateful that I live in a time and place where I have access to chocolate every day?  You bet I am!







Having a child completely and totally devoted to any kind of transportation vehicle, we also took a boat tour on the river which is a nice change of scenery.  DH and I would like to take a longer adventure to see the castles overlooking the river.  Anyone wanna babysit?  :)




The Römisch-Germanisches Museum had some almost complete mosaic floors dating back to the founding of Cologne by the Romans way back when.  They also had a reconstructed passenger wagon which DJ was rather taken with and an Egyptian mummy part of a special exhibit.  (If you have noticed we visited a lot of museums, you are right on...the weather was cool/rainy most days.)

Being fully aware that double decker bus tours are super cheesy, I love 'em anyway.  DJ was thrilled to ride on the top deck, even though it did break out in a downpour - driver  ran the convertible ceiling closed, it provided for a fun few hours of seeing without walking.  It's a great way for DH to get his bearings, as he should since I'm directionally impaired and he has the ever correct internal compass.


The post wouldn't be complete without a food update.  I've already mentioned the Kolsch beer, right?  Being in a tourist area, many people spoke English and there was a wider variety of dining opportunities.  DH was in search of the roasted pig knuckle which tastes a lot like pulled pork, but is still on the bone all in one piece.  I was rather excited about the Chicago Steakhouse and was looking forward to a nice burger, loaded baked potato and maybe a small salad.  Well, they did have salad and a hamburger which was served without a bun or a tomato or a leaf of lettuce or a slice of cheese and don't even get me started on the swiss and mushrooms I so love!  We did enjoy some Italian Gelato at a cafe on the square and DJ had his fair share of hot chocolate for the weekend.


On the train ride home, we all picked our favorite part of the weekend...DJ liked the big, big bell best.  Go figure!


Thing I miss most about USA?  Knowing what everything in the grocery store is and for the most part how to use it.  There are some cold cut meats here that frankly scare me.
Thing I love most about Germany?  Fresh made pretzel, sliced and buttered...available at every bakery.  


  


  




        

Just Plain YUMMY!

I've been away too long amid more boxes than I can count, but the end is drawing near...well, closer anyway.  But onto something even better...

Having been to the OBI (much like a Home Depot with the pet fish department at Meijer), we decide to have dinner at the place around the corner.  Hello Wichtel Hausbrauerei, where have you been all this time?  Not only does DH rave about the beer, but they have amazing pizza called Ofenfrische Wichtelkucken.  A8: Rahm, Kaese, Speck, Sauerkraut, Schnupfnudeln, Deb reziner.  To sum up, it's cheese pizza without tomato sauce with sausage, sauerkraut and long potato noodles.  

It is so delicious that we went back the next night and had it again, that's right two in a row!  We ate inside the next night and it was just a lovely as outside so we have another good eats with two thumbs up.  The pizza does take awhile to come as they are made fresh to order, but all the more time for beer.

While Germans take good ole beer and pizza to a new level, they don't really do ice cream all that well.  Actually, they do make exotic and delicious flavors...such as green apple...it isn't the smooth creamy stuff I prefer.  More like a Gelato Sorbet than actual ice cream.  They do only call it Eis (ice) so maybe the cream part isn't as big a deal?  Fortunately, DJ thinks it is just fine and why not when it comes looking like a bumblebee complete with little paper umbrella and cookie wings?  His smile says it all I think.  :)

I was also smiling big as the coca-cola I ordered came with a glass which is standard here, but the glass was filled with ice cubes!  It's the first time that has happened and I didn't even ask...the waiter must have known we were Americans.  Sometimes I forget that we stick out like a sore thumb to the natives as I'm getting used to the staring and have even started making eye contact without smiling since they don't smile back.  (I've heard that it is viewed as weakness or a simple mind here.  Maybe it's just city living?)  

DH has a meeting in Cologne on Thursday and will take a vacation day Friday so DJ and I are tagging along for a long weekend away.  We plan to take the train instead of drive so DJ will be very happy about that.  He still gets so excited when our train pulls up...so cute!

What I miss most about the USA:  My mom and dad...love you.        

What I love most about Germany:  Almost never hearing the neighbors even though we live in a building with six other households.      

            

one, two, three...catch up time

17-07-11
ein:
So the food here is usually pretty darn yummy. They really get comfort food here and carbs are everywhere being eaten by everyone. Can't complain there! It is however harder to find lots of variety in the Heilbronn area. We have driven past this Chinese restaurant so many times, I convinced DH to stop and give it a try. The best thing about this place was not the fish tank or the golden painted lions outside (and I do love lion statues!) or that they really carried through a theme of birds and flowers (adorning the light fixtures, paintings, carvings on the back of the chairs and just about anything else that can have a motif of some kind); it was the carved carrots that come with your dinner.

While fun, I very much miss Szechuan Empire North. I know one of the places I'll want to go when we have a home visit!

21-07-11
zwei:
When people told us that EVERYTHING closes down on Sunday...they were not kidding.  The only open establishments are gas stations, a handful of restaurants and churches.  We attended service at St Catherine's Anglican Church in downtown Stuttgart, stopped by Old MacDonald's (DJ believes that the song "Old McDonald Had a Farm" and the fast food restaurant chain are one in the same) for lunch and headed to the Feuerbach apartment to do some laundry.  It was a rainy day and much cooler so no trips to the park or sandbox.

As we were heading back, DJ starts chanting as only a 3-year-old can: ein, zwei, drei.  DH and I looked at each other and asked did you teach him that?  Neither of us had, but we went with it and he now goes all the way to ten in German.  This apparently wore him out as he fell asleep in the car shortly after AND slept through the whole night!  Sweet, sweet boy.

25-07-11
drei:
Haven't had much to blog this past week as I've been rather home sick which is frustrating to me.  Isn't this a dream come true, opportunity of a lifetime, etc?  Of course...and my heart of hearts knows that it will just take some time to get adjusted.  It has been lots of little things:

• DJ's kid meal toy speaks German which we all have memorized, but no idea what it's saying.  Burger King and Transformers both owe me one.
• Finally finding ground beef in the fourth grocery store you go to...Kaufland!  The bio mart (organic shop) did have it for 13 Euro which is about 18.68 USD so I didn't count that one.
• Reliable internet connections so that I can FaceTime with my parents.  I'm hoping that our service in Feuerbach is more stable.  Also, not being able to pick up the phone and call someone because while you may have an idea what to say...probably will have no idea what they say back.
• Watching your child regress because they don't know what's going on either.  I know the saying it's just spilled milk, but when DJ has reverted back to spilling half the contents every single time?  Starts to get on your nerves when it takes hours to do one load of laundry at an apartment 40 minutes away if you happen to have the car when he only has a few pair of jeans since it's Summer so the rest are in the sea shipment...where the heck is that boat?
• It has rained here a lot...like almost everyday a lot which is hard on a kid and his mommy.  Did manage to get DJ to the park one afternoon this week.  Phew!

Like I said...the stupid, disorienting, easy, take it for granted stuff has been crazy because it's everything that is a big hassle.  So whoever first said Thank God for small favors was a genius!  Today I emailed a bunch of places trying to find English speaking playgroups, drove around for errands and kept DJ mostly happy, picked up DH from work, cooked a dinner we usually had when in the US and the best part - the clock is no longer chiming.  Not that I wish ill upon an historic and beautiful clock mind you!  I'm sure it will be fixed so the rest of the world can enjoy it, but the respite from horns and bells and roosters is nice.  

Not even an hour later there was a stunning double rainbow (though the outer one is so faint it didn't show in the photo) spanning across the sky and DJ was so excited about it.  

What fresh and complete joy!  

Thank you, God.  

I needed that!  

Thing I miss most about USA:  double stuff Oreo's dipped in ice cold milk
Thing I love most about Germany:  rolling hills of vineyards with lush landscapes and double rainbows  :)

Schwabisch Hall

Living between two apartments isn't a lot of fun as you always seem to need what is at the other one or in the trunk of the only car you have while it is with DH at work.  I think Newton has a law about this and if he didn't, he should have.  At any rate, Saturday rolled around again and we decided to have a fun day...hooray!  After an hour long train ride, we arrived in Schwabisch Hall.  A cute little town where there are still lots of old half timber houses and a few covered bridges over the river by what is left of the city walls.  Being a sunny day with a strong breeze really topped it all off.

We walked around the meandering streets a bit and ended up at the front door of a museum so in we went and around we looked.  Having just finished Pillars of the Earth (which earns 4/5 stars) it was fun to explore the old parts of the building.  Much of the old building was intact and reinforced to be functional so you can see the stonework and painted wood beam ceilings.  The wooden staircase with banister and railings has new stairs built on top.  It was fun to go up exploring wondering what people used it daily so long ago.

Back to finding the city center were we stopped for a sour cream cake which turned out to be like a flat cheesecake and took in views of St Michael's Church.  There were a ton of very steep steps to the top where they stage plays.  Inside was so beautiful with floral painting around the medallions of the vaulted ceiling.  DJ looked up at the entry, saw this and said WOW!

Back out to the river through the covered bridge and to the park which is on an island part next to the old mill.  DJ loved having DH push him on the giant tire swing...laughing and swinging and spinning.  A great family day in Germany!

market day

Yesterday was raining and hot and humid.  Much cooler today and I'm glad for it!

Thursday is one of the market days here in Heilbronn along with Tuesday and Saturday.  Got the most wonderful red raspberries (himbeeren) earlier in the week.  They are so fresh and not at all tart.  Once we have a freezer, I'll have to store some up.  Yummies!  There is also a bakery wagon with lots of deliciousness.  Tried the Russian Brezel (pretzel) which is like a cocoa dough rolled with a crescent dough and twisted around and baked.  Also tried something much like a cinnamon roll without the icing and less cinnamon sugar stuff.  As the baker said, they are "not overly sweet" which to an American could translate to "almost sweet".  Both very tasty, but there are many more to explore before declaring a favorite.  There are cheese and meat and flowers, but mostly fresh produce.      

DJ and I went for dinner at the Ratskeller last night for dinner as DH was out with a coworker and client.  He tried the Spatzle (Swabian noodles) and loved them!  They really are quite delicious.  The Ratskeller is cellar below the Rathaus and there is one in every city with regional menus.  I can heartily recommend the one here in Heilbronn as well as the one in Ludwigsberg.  So now we can add that to his diet along with the Pommes and Pizza.

DH and I have been people watching quite a bit and have decided that Europeans don't necessary dress better than Americans, just different.  It's true that overall the majority of people here dress a bit more formally, but there are some very interesting exceptions of course!  We have seen men wearing crop pants, women wearing shorts with leggings underneath and a trend toward MC Hammer pants.  Crocs are not just for women here...saw an older gentleman wearing a pink pair all decked out with charms.  Sorry, I wasn't bold enough to take a picture.  Something that seems to run commonly is black, navy, brown, grey?  It's all good...feel free to wear as many of these colors as you can at the same time.    

Really need to work on some translating.  Our washer and dryer only have manuals in German and I have no idea what is what including where to put the detergent and how to get the clothes dry without shrinking them to nothing.  Still working through the list of items that are and are not accepted in the BioMull (compostable garbage) bin for the new apartment.  Housework takes on a whole new level of fun when you can't read the labels!

The golden rams are butting heads while the clock bell rings 11 so it's time to venture out and find the sandbox for DJ.  

What I miss most about the USA?  skim milk...1.5% fett sure is yummy, but miss the option of skim

What I love most about Germany?  how helpful people are when you try to speak German

photo: view from our apartment of the market, the tram tracks, and Kilianskirche - the largest church in Heilbronn   

it's really real

So we have officially been expats for 13 days and counting...it's really real.

We have figured out how to purchase a tram ticket, buy enough milk to keep from running out on Sunday and adjusted to the sounds of living with the bells of Heilbronn, though I still count every time they ring.  The air shipment arrived several days ago and it looks like a lot when in boxes, but not much when it's been unpacked.  Though most of it was toys for DJ, the most important part was the Thomas the Tank Engine inflatable sleeping bag which he LOVES.  We are all sleeping better.

Spending as much time as we can getting things ready at our new home which we have nicknamed the sandbox apartment to help DJ keep the two straight.  Home is an idea very much in flux right now.  DH and I are working to firm it up as much as we can so that when beds arrive, we will be ready to go.  

Having eaten there three times already, we are on our way to being regulars at an Italian cafe in Feuerbach which is down the meandering road on the way to the train station.  The owner is friendly, the food is delicious and DJ likes the rigatoni with tomato sauce so everyone is happy.  Thank you, Da Nello! Of course we have also been to Old McDonald's for happy meals with pommes (french fries) a few times too.

With about 40 hours of German lessons under my belt, I'm really in awe of anyone that is multi-lingual.  I seldom understand what people are saying to me, but did have a small conversation with a lady at the tram stop about DJ, language training and her sister who lives in California - at least I think that's what she said.  I am having trouble keeping straight my two's (zwei) and my three's (drei), but it's coming along.  How long does the immersion method take?  Meine Deutsch ist nicht so gut!

At last I have a phone!  After a visit to Vodafone with DH, we both have German cell phones.  They are now charging up and I'm looking forward to texting and calling and downloading apps and whatever else the thing will let me do.  The internet connection with the temporary apartment is weak and unreliable so this is going to make life a lot easier.

Tomorrow is market day so DJ and I will get some fresh fruit there and then we'll take the sand toys out to play.  Hoping to hit OBI again (a cross between Meijer and Home Depot) to get more light fixtures and maybe swing by Feuerbach in the afternoon/evening tomorrow.  

What I miss most about the USA?  air conditioning

What I love most about Germany?  Donner (a Turkish gyro with cabbage, sauce and tomatoes in a pocket pita)

photo: from our apartment window - Heilbronn Rathaus clock which is over 500 years old